Pierre Gagnaire (L) and Albert Adria are considered some of the most underrated chefs in the world in a magazine survey | Photo: AFP / Foodandwine.com
Who is the world’s most underrated chef? That’s the question award-winning Swedish food magazine Fool asked chefs and food writers around the world - with varied results.
Some of the most recurring names include Albert Adria, brother to the world’s rock star chef Ferran Adria of the now-defunct El Bulli restaurant in Spain, and Paolo Loriori of Il Canto in Siena, Italy, who is often eclipsed by Massimo Bottura, a regular on the international gastronomy circuit.
But other answers proved interesting, shedding light on the culinary and cultural gaps among chefs around the world.
For instance, though the question clearly asks to name the most "underrated" chefs, respondents such as Italian chef Fulvio Pierangelini named Marc Veyrat, a well-known Michelin-starred chef in France who was the first to score a perfect 20/20 grade from the country’s authoritative Gault-Millau guide for his restaurants L'Auberge de l'Eridan in Annecy and La Ferme de mon Pere in Megeve.
He no longer runs the restaurants.
Similarly, food writer and Guardian contributor Joe Warwick named French chef Pierre Gagnaire, a household name in France for his triple-Michelin-starred, eponymously named restaurant in Paris. (Incidentally, Gagnaire’s answer to the question: “Myself!”)
Other surprising answers range from Dan Barber, a New York chef known for his sustainable and seasonal menu at Blue Hill – one of the most popular dining destinations in the city – and another legendary French name, Michel Bras.
Andoni Luis Aduriz, whose Spanish restaurant Mugaritz ranks third on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, was also mentioned several times.
Perhaps one of the most underrated answers to the underrated question, however, has to go to chef Duangporn Songvisava, better known as "Bo", who was recently named the World’s Best Female Chef for her Bangkok restaurant Bo.lan.
“All the mothers in this world who have to come up with a different menu each night for an ungrateful family.”
Ferran Adria was in Singapore recently to unveil his new project, ‘The elBulli Foundation’, read our report here.