One day, after gym, some weeks ago, my (rich) friend suggested we eat at this restaurant for lunch. I hadn't heard about it as it hadn't officially opened yet. I wasn't keen when he told me it was at Dempsey and we had no reservations - this is usually a very bad combination.

But I had to go when I was shown the owner's card. Firstly, I recognised the name from my guilty and unforgivably low-class habit of studiously poring through the Tatler at work and memorising the tai-tais' names within. Secondly, I thought any restaurant opened by a tai tai who is cheeky or self-absorbed enough to sign off as "The Prime Princess" deserved a chance.

The decor is best described as "expensive casual". Exposed brick pillars, airy loft-like volumes, and deceptively understated brown wooden furniture with fabric upholstery. But don't be fooled, those Sarfatti chandeliers look real and are insistently whispering to you "For the wealthy, By the wealthy." Yes, boys and girls, it's that sort of place.

Needless to say, I liked it the moment I walked in with my consciously and ironically raised left eyebrow. As expected, inside, I recognised more faces from the Tatler. (You can also check out the restaurant website for more Tatler faces- it's a very entertaining romp.)

The obligatory and chatty gay waiter (not meant to be derogatory!) told me my steak would be cooked in some sort of a oak-plank grill, which is apparentlly a first here.

Unlike some other reviewers here, I didn't wait long for my steak - it came after about 15 minutes - possibly because the restaurant was relatively uncrowded. The steak was accompanied with some garden vegetables (nicely done) and my choice of sauce (Mushroom! Yes!). I like my steak medium rare, and unlike some places in Singapore, where medium rare translates as medium, or worse, medium-well, my steak really was medium rare.

And I have to say I did notice the woody, smoky undertaste that the oak-planks were presumably supposed to impart, and yes, I liked it. By the way, greedy eaters should be warned - the steak wasn't very large, at 160, at most 180 grams. But for me, it was just nice since I am not a very big eater. Subsequently, we had a quiet coffee and did what half of the patrons in the restaurant were doing - talk about real estate and engage in sickening mutual self-congratulation over how much we'd both made. He much much more than myself, I should point out.

The Prime Society is a perfectly adequate steak restaurant. But really, to feel at home at this place, you have to go with a certain unworried and unhurried state of mind and be accompanied by someone who can gossip to you about all the other patrons. It will help if you have already achieved (or shamelessly aspire to) Tatlerhood.

;o)