| Nicolas Le Restaurant |
Food and Beverage - 2
Ambience / Setting - 2.9
Value - 3.2
Service - 1.1
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Will you return to this place? Probably Not
I spent about S$100 per person
Review Date: 07 Mar 2008 |
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| 35 Keong Saik Road, Singapore |
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| I Don’t Normally Write in Point Form / The Water That Never Came
Sori I just can’t decide which is a better title to catch your eye. Just in case you are planning to traipse up this trendiest street in town to uncover new gourmet havens...so…just in case…hmm…I better forewarn.
When news broke that the former Les Saisons Chef has returned to set up his eponymous restaurant, I was raring to go test the waters since I never did get the chance to dine at the former Les Saisons for some reason or another Saint Pierre at Central Mall (the previous location) always seemed like a more alluring option whenever I’m in the region.
There is a set Lunch option going at $38++, consisting of amuse bouche, a choice of 4 starters and mains, and an option of 2 desserts, with coffee/ tea. Naturally like I said I was “testing the waters”, set lunch selection may not be the most veritable gauge to Chef Joanny’s culinary prowess. Hence we opted for the $90 degustation course (6 courses + coffee/tea + petit fours).
Bread was served, not bad actually, considering it was served really warm, and was multi-grained, tasty and nice on the stomach with a small pat of butter. Though I swear it’s not the premium French Echire butter I get elsewhere, I’m not complaining about this.
1. starter: Perle Blanche oyster and Tartare of Langoustine and Ikura, Chilled Vine Tomato Consommé – the oyster lacked the ‘sea’ factor; tomato consommé was chilled alright, but it isn’t pleasant, akin to panna cotta consistency, neither sweet nor sour, just horrid. Langoustine had a dubious fishy smell.
2. starter: Crispy Pastilla of Blue Prawn and Basil Light Lobster Bisque – I think LJS can do a better shrimp fry.
3. starter: Pan Roasted Duck Foie Gras, Caramelized Green Apple with Lemong****, Sakura Salad – There was no Oomph to this liver. The duck liver somehow wasn’t seared to the correct char on the exterior. There wasn’t even a tang of lemongrass. Sakura salad was non existent. And that little soupçon of Maldon Salt seemed every bit superfluous in this context. It had no business to be on the foie gras in the first place.
4. starter: Roasted Cod Fish Simple Ratte Potato Puree Mussel/ Iranian Saffron Emulsion – Fish was ok….there wasn’t any hint of mussel anywhere in the puree though there was Kurobuta LARD within the mash as I was told by the manager himself when I quizzed him. LARD…and I thought it was pork bacon.
Interlude course - Lemon Sorbet - Tangy and refreshing to cleanse the palate.
5. Main: Slow Baked French River Sander Fish, Dou Miao and Crispy Parmesan Lace, Cardamom Infused Carrot Jus. I chose this as my main. The fish itself was delicate and gracefully yielded under my knife (no fish spoon?) This erm…perhaps was the only saving grace of this meal.
Yep. Found Four Bones in my fish of which one of those lucky chaps got stuck in my gullet I had to excuse myself for regurgitating purposes in the washroom. Eew. Bones? Never in my fine dining experiences have I encountered bones in my fish. At my favoritest place they painstakingly de-bone the fish in its entirety before my very eyes. Oh my GAWD. That totally spells the end of lunch coz I think I will faint if I discover anymore misdemeanors in the imminent dessert course.
5. Main: 200 days Grain Fed Angus Beef Tenderloin Foie Gras Ravioli Bordelaise Sauce and Morel Mushroom (add $10++) – The Friend chose this with meat done medium rare. The doneness part was ok, a lit’ bloody but Friend liked it, especially the morel mushroom sauce which she dutifully mopped up with an extra roll of bread.
(Rack of Lamb from Tasmania, Edamame Bean Ragout Parmesan Emulsion – the 3rd option available as main course in this degustation menu)
6. dessert: White Chocolate Soup Soft Jivara Chocolate and White Truffle Drop – Did an obligatory taste test. Nothing great except the element of truffle that was quite prevalent. Not a good thing for me coz I don’t like my desserts to be tasting of anything else except sweet. I found a dissonance of flavor/ clash of taste coz there was only chaos within the soup, and merely a slight nuance of the stated white chocolate. The Friend commented it was flavorsome though.
Service was WOLS. I had to ask for water like 5 times before the waiter grudgingly came to my rescue lest my throat gets parched to death. And The Little Tea was paucity in audacity, for it was served in an espresso cup. Such daintiness in this French affair thus closed on its final chapter with a chocolate truffle petit four.
Camera went on strike. So I just ate what I could get out of the $90 and let The Friend capture all the wrongdoings of fine dining. And I’m so allowed to plagiarize her lovely photos for the sake of this review so please venture here for your viewing pleasure and decide upon yourself if you would want to bring woe at your own risk.
In my case, I have already decided this is another restaurant to be expelled to the Hall of Shame. My advice is to visit less of these establishments which have sinned in mediocrity. Save more moolah and make your virgin trip (if you haven’t) down to this place. Now that’s unparalleled 1st-class haute French fine dining at its acme.
Ps: Oh dang...job hazard. Forgot I wasn’t supposed to write beyond point form.
pps: Addendum: I just found out that the LARD(balls) the manager was talking about are LARDONS. erm... |
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| Must Tries: BYO chopsticks coz it’s easier to pick the bones out from your fish |
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| I also recommend this place for |
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| List of Comments |
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combat wombat says: |
7 Mar 2008 02:43
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Ahhh...was a fan of Les Saison when Nicholas helmed the kitchen. Still keen to give the restaurant a shot one of these days and hopefully will have a better experience. |
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picky gourmet says: |
7 Mar 2008 02:50
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wow girl...maybe you should take over the picky gourmet title hahaha
curious though...already so bad and so ex...still only "probably not" going back? =P |
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ice says: |
7 Mar 2008 07:03
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hi wombat!
I think I probably went down too early coz the restaurant is only about 1+ month-old. I certainly hope that it will iron out its kinks after the 2-month grace period though, coz it's always good to have competitors in the fine dining scene. Until then, I hope u will enjoy your experience when u visit. =)
Hi Picky,
I don't think I'm being picky here nor harsh either. When it comes to fine dining, I expect a certain level of standard and decorum which was very lacking on my visit. I nearly had to stand and help myself to that jug of tap water.
"Probably not" coz if you had noticed my reviews, I always do give establishments 2nd chances if I still see that little inkling of hope in them. I don't like to write off places after any first visits, I mentioned to you before it's not an accurate gauge of any establishment's standard. Maybe after Nicolas has eased itself into the fine dining scene some time later, I won't hesitate to give it another shot. =)
ps: ice is nice. no? :)
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Chicken Rice Man says: |
7 Mar 2008 08:29
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hmmm... also been meaning to check this place out. former Les Saison should not be bad right? |
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SCdreamer says: |
7 Mar 2008 08:51
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ice,
what point form? this a an essay! hahaha...while I have never fine dined b4...ur review seems comprehensive...n as usual i need to open up my dictionary...hahaha...
ur reviews are always a good read, in fact it should be recommended reading for A levels GP students...hahahaha |
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ice says: |
7 Mar 2008 09:16
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CRM: hmm...I see the similarity of thoughts with the 1st comment... go give it a try then! :)
sc: >.<
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cloudgal says: |
7 Mar 2008 10:28
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ur reviews really gd read, been v long since i get to read this kind of prose besides story books..feeling so ashamed at my own..haiz..
the food and svc seems really bad...will hva consider thoroughly before gg down sometime down the road to try |
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Petite Mummy says: |
7 Mar 2008 10:42
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I think they forgot your Sakura Salad. The plating for foie gras lack the green (colour) and soft (texture) elements that comes with "leaves" ; )
Hey, opp Nic, down the row of shophouses, there's a local roast meat shop. They serve great roast duck noodles ; ) |
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ice says: |
7 Mar 2008 11:03
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cloudgal: thanks CG! but I think I ramble too much... >.<
You may not want to write off this place so fast coz Joanny is actually quite a good Chef. Give him a lit' more time to get to the tempo. I believe he should be able to take off. :)
haha maybe we should organise a makan dinner there. :p |
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SCdreamer says: |
7 Mar 2008 11:21
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wah! not fair! cg gets a thks n I get the evil eyes?! or r those ur small eyes??? hahahaha |
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