For the full review with pictures, click http://poachedmag.com/2013/04/19/review-fordham-grand/
Along the quiet Craig Rd in Chinatown, lies a large wooden door. Beyond which, you get transported into an alternate reality. A reality where you lose the sense of time and the hustle and bustle of the surrounding business district.
No, it’s not the magical door to Narnia. But for those who know of it, it is a door to somewhere possibly as good. The door opens to a dark, windowless bistro and bar called Fordham & Grand
. Somewhat nondescript; you might miss it if you weren’t looking for it. It is a place so dark and hidden, it seemingly allows you to forget about the outside world for just a little while – not helped at all by the affordably priced wines there.
Fordham & Grand is the pet project of Tim Lim
and Tron Young
who met while working in the service line at Tetsuya’s in Sydney. The restaurant opens till late and features a unique cocktail menu painstakingly crafted by owner/bar-tender Tron.
Helming the kitchen is Chef Fong Kean Hun
who has had an illustrious career working in restaurants such as SANTI
and Joel Robuchon Restaurant
. The fussy attention to detail required at those high levels is fittingly reflected in his food here. The menu was well thought out. Dishes were not haphazardly put together, and every ingredient in each dish had a role to play in terms of flavour, texture or aesthetics.
A terrific dish to start the meal with is the Fish Broth with Seafood and Garlic Toast ($17)
. The broth was light and clear, with the flavour of the fish coming through cleanly almost like a consommé. The flavourful soup comes with nice bite-sized chunks of prawns, octopus, scallops and a wonderfully garlicky buttered toast.
Another highlight was the Green Pea Risotto ($24)
with zucchini flower and parmesan. It hit all the right spots. It was rich, creamy, firm to the bite and the crispy zucchini flower tempuras provided the perfect textural contrast. Sworn carnivores out there, don’t be put off by this dish although it’s green and – gasp – vegetarian. Amazing things can be done with vegetables in the hands of the right person, as shown by this dish.
The Lobster Linguini ($28)
with ginger, chilli, coriander and olive oil was, however, the star of the show. This dish was a twist on the traditional Aglio Olio – which believe me, 99 per cent of the restaurants do not get right. The chilli, coriander and ginger combined to give the dish a wonderful fragrance and spice while the lobster added a savoury and sweet punch. Finally, the olive oil formed the vehicle which brought those flavours together, coating the linguini with all that goodness and leaving you wanting more after...