06 December, 2009
Believe me when I say this was a magnificent feast of epic proportions. First of all, we had to order three dishes two days in advance. Then, 10 of us ate 15 courses of the most decadently delectable Hong Kong cuisine outside of the island. That's 150 percent more than what you get at a wedding banquet.
You see, sometimes you've just got to look in all the wrong places for the right stuff. Who would have thought affordable, perfectly prepared Cantonese cuisine would be sandwiched between lighting stores on Balestier? Then again, who would have thought that without asking, we were served a complimentary basket of fried fish skin to go with the bottles of sauvignon blanc that we'd brought to dinner (with no corkage charge)? And who would have thought to create delicate dumplings out of egg white, that willfully submit to your palate to reveal seasoned shredded vegetables inside? Every dish was brilliant, but that was the Albert Einstein moment of the evening for me. That was genius gastronomy.
Next, the fortune roll that under a complex and intriguing Web of fritter laid a plump, fresh, abundant cornucopia of seafood. Then, a steaming pot of braised crocodile paw so melt-in-your-mouth tender you can't believe that once crawled out of a swamp (bonus points: the roast pork to enhance the stewed gravy). Now, when a platter of roast chicken was served, it was seemingly the most conventional item we would eat all night. But one bite into that crisp skin that tantalizing revealed tender, juicy meat, you know you were dealing with something special.
Back to trotting off the beaten barn, a smoked duck was delivered in slices, with a thick covering of fat (one can only imagine what that creature's foie gras might have been!). It's not hard to see why this was one of the restaurant's signature dishes. In fact, why see... just taste. Give a foot, and get an immaculately braised goose's web that captured every spice and every ingredient that went into its gravy. Cod filets, pan-fried and tossed in chili, leeks and onions then found its way onto the lazy Susan. You know a place is good if it takes something so simple in concept and transforms it into a deeply philosophical matrix of culinary kung-fu. Enough said.
No, we're not done. To ease the guilt of all the above indulgence, a dish of green beans stir-fried with ground pork (superbly seasoned) cleansed our palate for a bit. Before you know it, we were back on the dark side with a basket of battered oyster mushrooms - my only regret was that we didn't have a bottle of pinpointedly chilled stout to go with it. And what's a Hong Kong meal without prawns sauteed in salted duck egg yolk? If I could have put it in my wallet, I'd be a millionaire - that's how rich and happiness-inducing it was. The claypot extravaganza of black pepper beef with glass noodles was aromatic, the kind of dish you can smell even before it's served. One final burst of epicurean explosion came in the form of a complete grouper swimming in a perfectly balanced gravy, luxuriously reclining amid mushrooms.
What do you think is the best way to end this Cantonese feast? No, you did not guess right. Yes, we had slabs of three-inch thick French toast, fried and lightly tossed in sugar, with peanut butter in the middle and pads of butter atop. It's as delicious as it sounds.
Don't even try to picture what I've just shared with you. Just go. And eat. Try to eat more than we did. It's worth rolling home and groaning in bed after. And then do it all over again. Repeat.
By the way, not to be slighted but easily overshadowed by the art on the table are the masterpieces on the walls. Drawn and painted by children, scenes of Singapore and Chinese traditions are depicted in the most natural and unconventional ways. There's nothing about it that goes with the sparse decor of this straight-up cafe, but it greatly adds charm to a tabletop already brimming with it.
Must tries: Egg White Dumplings, Seafood Fortune Roll, Smoked Duck, French Toast, Black Pepper Beef
I also recommend this place for: