Also known as Marine Parade Laksa, its long history no doubt is impressive. What we didn’t expect was to see the stall right in the middle of an open space, with the kitchen surrounded by tables and chairs. It’s a bit strange but this eat-and-go place was practical with efficient service.
 
We each had a small bowl of katong laksa ($3.50), which came topped with cockles, fish cake, prawns, laksa leaves and a glob of chili paste at the side. The gravy was slightly gritty and flavorful without going overboard with the coconut milk. More dried shrimps would’ve been nice and its mild heat was easy on the palate and stomach.
 
Considering katong laksa is characteristically subdued in flavors, this rendition was robust enough to satisfy us. Not shiok, but good for a quick meal.

With a Peranakan culture influenced by Chinese and Malay origins, Laksa is a spicy noodle dish and usually available either in coconut curry or asam (sour fish) soup base. Typically, rice vermicelli is used what makes it special is due to its 'janggut' nature, where you will not need a fork or chopsticks to enjoy the bowl of delicacy. Toppled with cockles, sliced shrimps and shredded fish cakes, all you need is a soup spoon to scoop it all up!

This review may also be read here with clearer pictures.

'Janggut' Laksa

(+) Fresh coconut curry soup base and the fragrance was very stimulating to your senses indeed.

(+) Slight gritty texture to the soup due to the grounded dried prawns and spices, complementing the smooth vermicelli.

(+) Mildly spicy, which does not upset the stomach, especially if its your first meal of the day.

(+) Convenient to eat, since all you need is a spoon to scoop up the goodies in the bowl.

(-) Depending on individual tastes, personally I would prefer it to be spicier.

Verdict: 8.0/10

Fish (Mackerel) Otah

Otah is typically a mixture of spices and fish meat, sliced thinly and wrapped up using a large piece of banana leaf, slow-grilled to perfection over charcoal fire. This delicacy is usually enjoyed as an accompaniment to a main dish, in my case,laksa. Interestingly but not the most appetizing fact to be honest, Otah means brains in Malay language. I try not to associate this thinking when I enjoy this delicious accompaniment to my laksa.

(+) The banana leaf leaves a lingering tinge of fragrance on the fish otah and complemented well with the spices and fish.

(+) Not overly greasy, which accompanies well with the laksa which itself is slightly oily with the coconut milk used.

(+) Does not leave you with a 'fishy' aftertaste, considering the main ingredient being mackerel.

(+) The otah is relatively broad, hence portion size larger than the average otah sold elsewhere.

Verdict: 7.5/10

Ambience/Setting: Not your usual restaurant. It really is a 'come-and-go' sort of kiosk to grab a quick meal since you sit alongside each other on a long table.

Queensway Shopping Centre, #01-59, Singapore 149053

Branches:

1) 50 East Coast Road, #01-64, Roxy Square, Singapore 428769

2) Blk 128 Bedok North Street 2, #01-02, Singapore 460128

Out of curiosity, I asked my Malay friends what a’ janggut’ was, and they told me that it was supposed to be a beard! Yet, Janggut Laksa is named after the man who first created the dish and he was spotted with hair growing out of his mole on his chin!  He started peddling his laksa along East Coast Road on a pushcart on weekends at the time when East Coast Road was still next to the sea. In 1963, his brother and him finally settled down in 49 East Coast Road and started Marine Parade Laksa. He was the master from whom the other Katong Laksa came from.
Marine Parade Laksa will always hold a special place in my heart as I was first introduced to laksa by my then girlfriend (now wife). Unfortunately, Marine Parade Laksa closed in 1978 due to an increase in rent and the stall was taken over by the current owner of 328 Laksa. They went into a two-year hiatus before re-emerging in Far East Square. But by then, they had lost momentum. Today, Marine Parade Laksa has rebranded itself as Janggut Laksa and rightly states that they are the original Katong Laksa, which paradoxically has its main stall located at Queensway Shopping Centre.  They have a branch at the ground level food court in Roxy Square and another one in Bedok, but these have never recaptured the magic of the original stall.
It seems like such a waste that Janggut should be serving their legendary recipe in a kiosk at Queensway Shopping Centre that could easily be passed off as just another laksa stall. But when I closed my eyes and imagine that I was seated at the original coffee shop, that first spoonful of the laksa gravy actually triggered memories of the familiar symphony of flavours which have been stored in the deep recesses of my subconscious.  It was an Anton Ego (the food critic in Ratatouille) moment.
Mdm Ng explained to me that there were several factors preventing them from reaching the gold standard like in the good old days. Firstly, they can't use a charcoal fire anymore to cook the gravy and secondly, rising food costs and the value-for-money seeking diner mean that they have to cut down on the amount of ingredients like dried shrimps and Ti Poh (solefish).  Still, they are trying hard to create a bowl of laksa worthy of old Janggut and despite all the challenges, are able to produce one which crosses the “oomph” threshold. Imagine what they can do if I gave them a budget of $5 a bowl?
The thing that first attracted me to this stall was the gravy – it had that punch even though it was not spicy. Despite being a shadow of what they used to be, I daresay that this is one of the best bowls of laksa being served anywhere in Singapore today.