Food Nomads •
02 Aug 2013 • 168 reviews • 11 followers
For the complete post with uploaded pictures, please view:http://www.thefoodnomads.com/2013/08/01/jin-shan-lou-mbs/
Jin Shan Lou takes after its Taiwanese chef, Huang Qing Biao, a celebrity chef used to serving diplomats and celebrities. His trophies are shelved nonchalantly beside bottles of cognac (VSOP Martell, for sure). A quiet confidence sustains a prolific menu: singular signatures of expensive Chinese delicacies like abalone; mid-range standards that are adopted zi-char staples; and a Taiwan porridge option, typically small dishes and porridge, available at intervals that eventually ends at four in the morning.
Mr Huang is Taiwanese, and is the reason for Jin Shan Lou’s Hunan, Cantonese and Sichuan influences, trained in strict and proper Chinese fashion.
From the evidence of traditional roasts, Mr Huang imparts his mastery to his kitchen well. Thin roast duck skin has near contact with flesh bearing fragrant juices, separated not by a pad but a thin web of fat. Soy chicken, occasionally dry, was tender and flavoursome. The pork cubes- crackling skin that was flat and crisp, cap off sleek cubes of pork belly. The bony lower bits have been excised, a show of its fine dining accent. Wasabi dots accompany as green colored mustard, nothing new but a thought nonetheless.
“Food writers would buy any claim made by chefs,” but Mr Huang prefers no-nonsense; a double boiled shark cartilage soup, an unctuous equivalent of tonkotsu, is revealed to have been simmering for only 4 hours. Fillers are fresh goji berries and a tangle of spinach, the latter marring things a little with a slight medicinal aftertaste.The menu diction runs almost too literally.
There’s a cooked pumpkin arriving with its lopped-off top kept on, so you have the honor of un-lidding it. You’ve ordered a dish of seafood soup welling in the pumpkin cavity, sweet and complex, but remain unaware that the seafood you will excavate is specifically scallops and prawns.
Less austere is a trending catch on salted egg yolk sauce, frothy liquid sand stir fried with butter, curry leaves and chili padi. Watch it; its gritty texture gags at times. But it is undeniably delicious, a good case of appeal for the limp prawn batter.