Jul 20, 2007
I was a bit mystified as to why this ground floor establishment at the one end of Vivo’s restaurant row hadn’t been reviewed yet while every other one has been reviewed multiple times. Why, ah?
Is it because they don’t have a view despite their location next to the water? Is it because they’re located opposite HSBC whose branches are usually located away from the maddening crowd? Is it because their muzak is really Vivo’s muzak which includes ear shattering conversation killing public announcements? Is it because of their unattractive frontage, kitchen entrance facing the restaurant entrance? Bad Feng Shui? Is it because they’re next door further down from Tung Lok Signatures, and no one gets past this stylish restaurant, putting its neighbour out of view for someone musing their next gastronomic adventure walking along restaurant row? Is it because everyone had enough of traditional nyonya/peranakan and is seduced by the more stylish ones at Vivo? Why, ah?
Their menu and their maître d'hôtel at the hospitality desk look attractive enough. No turn off there. Must be the food…
Nyonya ngo hiang ($8/roll), deep fried beancurd skin filled with seasoned minced pork, prawn, water chestnut and carrot, served with chilli and sweet sauce. Although well endowed in size and content, I was struggling to discern the “ngo hiang”. The skin was not crispy, the sauce came in three components – 1 assam chill, 1 sweet chilli and 1 sweet honey like sauce – nothing outstanding here. Definitely like the Penang ngo hiang better.
Ayam buah keluak ($12/$18), their signature dish, comprising pieces of juicy chicken stewed with black nut gravy providing a balance of spicy, sweet and the unique aroma of the nut. This was ok but their chicken certainly wasn’t juicy as described, more the typical overcooked frozen variety. It was the sauce that saved this dish from oblivion.
Nyonya chap chye ($10/$14), a traditional nyonya delicacy prepared with an assortment of different vegetables and herbs like cabbage, mushrooms, glass noodles (tang hoon), black fungus, dried beancurd and bean paste. Again ok, but nothing to write home about.
And by the way they charge for the welcoming but not complimentary (i.e. they charge without your request) towels, keropok and archar ($3.50). A very annoying habit some restaurants do.
All in all, nyonya, baba, so so.