There are not many places in the world where you can have dinner at the Sultan's palace. This is it. Formerly a run down derelict house, it has been renovated to bring back some of the glory to the area. This Sultan's gate area is part of our history as the Sultan lived there with his entourage.

Reservation: Not crowded at dinner - but watch out for wedding celebrations which crowd you out.

Food / Beverage: Rendang and yellow rice were very tasty, sayur lodir was reasonable and the desserts were so so. Good to bring your touristy friends who love history. The food is good but not memorable.

Ambience: Renovated house, step up to the 2nd floor to enjoy more of history, eating outdoors with your fingers will bring you back to Sultan Iskandar who lived there years ago and sold out to Raffles, Singapore's founder, for a pittance. A group of dancers come in to perform the harvest dance half way through dinner.

Value: Low priced Malay buffet.

Service: Acceptable.

If anyone were to ask me what is my favourite Malay dish, my answer is Nasi Ambeng without any hesitation. Traditionally, this authentic Javanese cuisine is served on a dulang (a big serving tray) only at kenduris. Kenduri is a form of thanksgiving to the Almighty for his abundance on happy occasions such as the fulfilment of the 40th day of a newborn, birthdays or weddings.

Banana leaves are used to line this dulang onto which, white or yellow steamed rice for 4-8 persons is placed in the centre. It is then surrounded by Bergedel, Sambal Goreng, Urap, Rendang, Pachri, Ayam Goreng, Sambal Sotong, etc. The end product is one enormous dish meant for sharing in groups of 4-6 (even 8) sitting on the floor around it. Men sit separately from the women, eating with their hands, communal style. I have always find this experience immensely intimate, the joy of sharing this gastronomical delight apparent in all present, enforcing bonding at the highest level.

Tepak Sireh is housed in a historical building, Gedung Kuning that is now preserved for the Malay Heritage Centre. Built more than 150 years ago for the Sultan's Bendahara (Prime Minister), the wooden architecture reminiscent of a bygone era, reeks of royalty, history and pride. It also reminds me of the now defunct Aziza's and Alkaff Mansion. I had the good fortune of attending a wedding at this beautiful restaurant recently. Nasi Ambeng was served to our table of 10. On it was Beef Rendang, Sambal Goreng, Bergedel, Sambal Udang, Serondeng and Kari Ayam on the huge mound of rice. Although not quite the standard that Aziza's was in the 80's, food here is exquisitely authentic and every morsel intoxicating.

Tepak Sireh offers a fantastic buffet spread of about 10 dishes together with rice and dessert. Price is fixed at $13.90 nett for lunch, dinner, weekdays or weekends. No GST, no CESS, no Service Charge - Super Great Value for an excellent experience of the great Malay hospitality.